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Author Topic: Bedding Brakes  (Read 2827 times)

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Tinman

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Bedding Brakes
« on: May 16, 2009, 09:54:53 PM »

I saw this on the big board found it kinda useful, hopefully you guys can use it also.

http://www.zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm

When I first put mine on I had already bled the system and put new fluid in the clutch and brakes front and rear. Found the brakes to be a little "soft".
Did this today and now the brakes feel a lot more sensitive.

Dusty

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Re: Bedding Brakes
« Reply #1 on: May 17, 2009, 04:36:33 AM »

That's pretty interesting. The only part that concerns me is getting the rotor so hot that it turns blue. Guess they wouldn't warp unless they were to cool too fast?

Something else that makes a huge difference, is fresh brake fluid, and making sure the system is flushed completely. Randy told me about Valvoline Synthetic Dot 3 & 4 brake fluid. I only found it at Advanced Auto. It's clear unlike some of the other which have a slight yellow or orange color to begin with. This makes it a lot easier to tell when the system is flushed completely. With all the humidity in this area, the brake fluid gets moister in it faster than you realize and doesn't work anymore. I was pleasantly surprised because I had changed my pads with no improvement. Changed the fluid and dang near threw myself over the windshield.  :thumbup:
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hooter

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Re: Bedding Brakes
« Reply #2 on: May 17, 2009, 05:05:25 AM »

Maybe I need a fluid change cause even though I've changed pads the brakes on my 18 have never been that good. Always kinda wondered why Honda would build something that went this fast and put Fred Flintstone brakes on it.
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Wild Bill05

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Re: Bedding Brakes
« Reply #3 on: August 28, 2011, 07:28:17 AM »

Ok, have the 1800. Changed pads. Squeaks when above 15 mph. Even at high speed,you could hear it. Went back to OEM, same thing. Everybody says change fluid. I finally did and braking power 3X better. But still have that  :cuss: squeak!  But, for all arguments fluid change helped. Even on clutch.
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matap

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Re: Bedding Brakes
« Reply #4 on: August 28, 2011, 09:27:41 PM »

I've always kinda had a squeak and I've changed my brake pads once already and have changed fluid as well.  I don't know where I've read but that the 1800's are prone to the brake squeak b/c of the size and mass of stopping it.
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bluestreak

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Re: Bedding Brakes
« Reply #5 on: November 16, 2011, 07:23:57 AM »

I've always kinda had a squeak and I've changed my brake pads once already and have changed fluid as well.  I don't know where I've read but that the 1800's are prone to the brake squeak b/c of the size and mass of stopping it.

The VTX has good brakes (suffecient power but lacks initial feel) and the rider should be able to lock the wheel with moderate to firm lever pressure.  I'm not saying you want to do that in an emergency, but the X has suffecient brakes to lock both wheels if they are working properly.

While new brake pads need to be "fully bedded in" to deliver peak braking performance, I choose not to be too aggressive durring the bedding process after a pad change because I like most, don't re-surface the rotors during a pad change.  Aggressive bedding generates higher than normal rotor temps and can cause rotor warpage if the rotor is under a mounting stress or if it was not surface ground when the pads were changed.  After a pad change I try to be light on lever pressure durring the first few stops and increase lever pressure throughout a days worth of riding taking care not to get the brakes too hot.  By the end of the days ride I will have progressed braking pressure to be able to lock the wheels at will.  Normal braking operation will suffeciently bed OEM material pads from routine moderate braking pressure in just a day of normal riding. New pads will offer about 80% of thier full potential without an aggressive bedding procedure, so don't worry about "not having any brakes" when they are new.  They will be adequate for emergency braking in just a few braking procedures but will be at thier best when fully bedded in.  

Size of the bike has nothing to do with why brakes squeal.
If the OEM brake pads are squealing when your off the lever ......the pucks in the caliper may not be retracting enough to pull away from the rotor and are dragging slightly. Changing fluid helps the pucks to retract easier and may stop a squeal.  Fluid should be changed every year to avoid system damage due to corrosion and to avoid brake fade if/when they get hot.  
Brakes can squeal when on the lever if there is a material mis-match between the rotor and pad (as when changing to after market pads) or if they are not seated well in the calipers.  High ceramic content pads (race pads) are very hard, have a very high drag coefficent and work best only after they reach operating temp and for that reason, they are not a good choice for street applications because your brakes will probably not be "up to temp" when you need them most. They should not be used for street applications.  
In the selection process...........As pad material gets harder, braking performance generally improves but rotor wear and noise increase.
« Last Edit: November 16, 2011, 08:00:35 AM by bluestreak »
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Silver-VTX

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Re: Bedding Brakes
« Reply #6 on: November 21, 2011, 10:29:23 PM »

Good info.  Thanks.
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