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[Dusty]

I bought the Kuryakyn control extensions ( KUR-4590 ) and some floorboards ( KUR-7916 ) back at HDL's  Thanksgiving sale. I finally got them completely installed today. They are not hard to install, just never could find the desire to do it when I had the time to work on it.
Anyway, the floorboards require an adaptor to fit the OEM mounts. No problem, except the adaptor and the floorboards don't lock into each other very well. The adaptor and the floorboards both have teeth that should mesh together and lock in place when tightened but they don't. They probably do before the teeth are filled with chrome.  This design sucks the big one. There isn't much I can do with the teeth without screwing up the finish and eventually having rust form on them. I was going to use red lock tight on the mounting bolt that holds them together but I have never used it before and when I took the cap off the bottle, the stuff was the consistency of water......well, red water. I was expecting a paste like substance and for it to be sort of tacky.

Two questions:

1. Is the lock tight suppose to be watery?

2. Has anyone ever installed this combination with V & H Bigshots? If so, what did you do with the brake line from the rear reservoir over to the piston. Mine is laying against my front exhaust pipe right now.

My first test ride was interesting. In less than a mile, both floorboards had come loose (yes, I had tightened the crap out of them) and would go vertical if I took my feet off of them and I realised at my first stop that I had forgotten to bleed my brakes.  The bike is back on the jack so I can't hurt myself. 

[Chad]

  One thing about the brake line against the exhaust is that you can go to a auto parts store and get a hose of the same size and have it cut longer. Then take the rubber cover off the old hose and put it on the new one to form the bend around the exhaust. As far as the lock tite... the blue is pretty watery. Never used the red! About screwing up the finish on the chrome ... well heard something that will cover it up and help out it not rusting so fast.. Buy some chrome nail polish !!! Use it to cover the rust spots on bolts!! Good luck!! 

[snake]

Dusty, you could try using some "star" locking washers made out of S/S in the area that is supposed to mesh....should cinch it up.

[Dusty]

  One thing about the brake line against the exhaust is that you can go to a auto parts store and get a hose of the same size and have it cut longer. Then take the rubber cover off the old hose and put it on the new one to form the bend around the exhaust. As far as the lock tite... the blue is pretty watery. Never used the red! About screwing up the finish on the chrome ... well heard something that will cover it up and help out it not rusting so fast.. Buy some chrome nail polish !!! Use it to cover the rust spots on bolts!! Good luck!! 

Thanks Chad! I had thought about trying the longer hose trick and that may be the way I end up going but the line looks really out of place where it is. I think I'm going to take it by a hose shop and se what kind of combination they can come up with to run it behind the pipe. It would have to be rubber to make the connections but could be hard line to loop behind the pipe. I don't even know if they can make a combination like that.

[Dusty]

Dusty, you could try using some "star" locking washers made out of S/S in the area that is supposed to mesh....should cinch it up.

Good idea John, had not thought about that approach.

[hooter]

Dusty you can remove the hose and peel back the hose cover on the M/C end. About 2" from where it clamps to the M/C cut the line. Get a piece of 5/16" copper tubing about 3 1/2" long and insert it into the hose where you made the cut to make an extension between the two pieces. Inserting the tubing about 3/4 to 1" on each end. This will extend the length of the line enough to clear the pipes. It's a fairly tight fit between the copper and hose and you can use a couple of tyraps or small hose clamps to secure the hose to the copper. It's not a pressured line, gravity feed only, and won't leak even just using the tyraps but better safe than ----. Put the hose cover back in place, when doing this part of the operation be careful of the choice words you use, there might be some children around playing in the next block down. There"s another way to deal with the cover that would be easier and look alot better when finished but I can't explain and don't have any pic's to show ya, anyway you and I probably have to big of fingers to do this surgery.

[Dusty]

I finally got these things mounted and they stayed in place for 125 miles today. I'm slowly getting use to them. To get them to stay in place I mixed some jb weld up and put in the splined section between the floorboards and the adaptor. Then I very hurridly put some red locktite on the bolt and ran it up tight. I let it sit for several days before I tried them. It's like getting on a totally different bike but I'm going to like it.

The only issue I have with the floor boards is that the adaptor pushes the boards out about an inch which makes the brake pedal and shifter an inch further inside than they were. So, I'm sort of doing a pingeon toed thing to get my feet to them.
Anyone know of an extension for the brake and shifter to move them to be more inline with my feet? I looked on HDL SINCE THEY ARE HAVING A SALE but didn't see anything.